Intermittant Cut Out!

Post Reply
philtastic55
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Dec 20, 2015 7:35 pm

Intermittant Cut Out!

Post by philtastic55 » Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:33 am

HI,

I own a 1953 P4 75 (2103cc) and I'm encountering problems with the engine dying.

The car always starts from cold and most days runs without issue over varying distances. However it will periodically cut out and not restart straight away. When it happened to me last week I had driven 10 miles without issue but having slowed for a corner on pressing the accellerator the engine cut out and failed to restart. That said after been left to cool for 20 minutes the engine started and drove home with no problem.

Over recent months to try and rectify the problem I have checked the cooling and fuel systems and replaced plugs, points, rotor arm, condenser, distributor cap, ignition leads and coil but all to no avail.

Has anybody experienced a similar problem with their car or any thoughts what may be the problem.

It is getting to the point that I no longer want to take it out due to the uncertainty of getting back home!

Any observations would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Phillip Hunt

User avatar
Phil - Nottingham
Posts: 357
Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2008 10:45 am
Location: Nottingham

Re: Intermittant Cut Out!

Post by Phil - Nottingham » Mon Dec 28, 2015 10:38 am

All points in the above Want Post - very likely electrical as vaporisation does not cause immediate stall and starting is likely to be be partial on first attempt. Is pump ticking normally and reserve switch operating. It may even be the ignition switch which can be hot wired to test it when it happens again
P2/P4/P5/P5B/LR's - EXJ 8**/2**8MY & others

User avatar
OldFogey55
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2015 7:12 am
Location: Berowra Heights, NSW, Oz

Re: Intermittant Cut Out!

Post by OldFogey55 » Wed Jun 28, 2017 1:14 am

I just read the text below on the Distributor Doctor website, on the page relating to rotor arms. Seems to describe your symptoms

" Rotor arm problem

Distributor Doctor can now offer a high quality alternative to the commonly available reproduction rotor arms which have been routinely failing and leaving people stranded.
This has been a sore point for TR owners for almost a decade now, but it also affects a host of other Lucas equipped vehicles from the 1930's onwards.
Recently manufactured rotor arms have been failing because the typical "mix" used in the injection moulding nowadays contains more carbon blacking and is therefore more conductive. Still more importantly, the rivet which holds the brass inlay into the moulding is slightly longer than the original, bringing it too close to the spring clip on the underside. The high tension current, averaging 30,000 volts, is always looking for the easiest route to earth and shorts out from the tip of the overlength rivet, through the reduced thickness of more conductive plastic and the spring clip on the underside of the rotor arm, to earth out down the distributor shaft. Result - no sparks at the plugs. The situation sometimes rectifies itself on cooling, but then reoccurs with increasing frequency until the rotor permanently short circuits. "
Henry
1951 P4 75 - Delilah

Post Reply