1934 Rover 12 clutch

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digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

1934 Rover 12 clutch

Post by digcot65 » Thu Jun 03, 2021 9:43 am

Good morning,Im almost ready to try the car on the road.Ive noticed moving the car on the driveway,that the clutch bites quite late and the play in the pedal is fine.This usually means a worn clutch,I put the car into gear and held the brakes on and it pulls away OK with no slip.However I would find it more comfortable to have it biting lower down.Has anyone replaced the clutch on a 1934-5 12,if so whats it like.Ive replaced clutches on more modern cars Len

TonyG
Posts: 288
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:38 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12 clutch

Post by TonyG » Fri Jun 04, 2021 8:44 am

Hi Len,

The important thing is that the clutch bites progressively, rather than engaging in a very short movement. Also that it does so without a lot of juddering.

Have you checked the clutch cable adjustment? It could be too tight; I think there should be a little free play on the pedal before tension is taken up. Also the cable needs to be kept lubricated. It can get dry as very close to the hot exhaust. Does your car have Luvax system? If it has then lubrication is dependent on the engine running and your car has been standing a while. If not, you may have a grease nipple on the cable, making it easy to get the grease in. Worth a look.

Failing that, I’d suggest trying the clutch for a while, rather than diving straight in and changing it.....

Changing the clutch is not complex. Very much like the average Cortina once you get the box out! However, the gearbox needs to come out through the car and this involves removing the front seats, carpets, tunnel cover and bulkhead plates ( the ones beneath the pedals and corresponding on the other side). With that lot out of the way, the prop shaft has to come off (castellated nuts should have split pins), remote change has to come off along with clutch cable, freewheel cable, speedo drive and starter motor. That’s the hard bit.

Then it’s just a matter of supporting the rear of the engine, removing the bell-housing bolts and rear mounting and sliding back the gearbox before struggling it out of the way to gain access to the clutch. I can’t recall if you can get the box far enough back without removing the metal propshaft tunnel. The pressure plate/cover is located on metal dowels and castellated nuts with more split pins! Once removed you will get to the clutch plate itself. You also need to check that the release bearing is in good order. These are lubricated with clutch oil passed through the input shaft via small holes that can get blocked. Conversely, the oil can flow too readily and the RSR workshop manual details blocking off one of the holes etc to avoid surplus oil getting on the clutch, so worth a read. I think the release bearings can be taken apart to change the balls and/or pack with grease if that is your preference. If the rear gearbox mounting is perished, this can contribute to juddering so worth changing at this point. Also a good idea to check the UJs in the prop as it’s easier to get it out with the box out the way.

There are two main types of clutch and Meteor Spares stocks the plates and exchange covers - or, at least, Mike did when I did my cars two or three years ago. Be sure to order the correct ones as they are like for like exchange parts. You cannot go by vehicle age as some older cars, like my P1 Tourer, have been retro-fitted with later type clutches. My P2 Saloon, although slightly newer has the older type clutch and release bearing. Both operate effectively. He has the mounting rubber too.

In short, it’s a job that will take a while and really needs two people. I’ve not removed a box like this since 1976 when I was much younger, fitter and enthusiastic! We completed it in a day but I reckon I’d allow several days if I was to do one like this now.

The other option is to remove the engine but you won’t want to do that I should think, having just sorted the bodywork! I did both mine while the engine and box was out to restore the cars.

I hope that helps. Like I said, it’s a while since I did one like this so I may have forgotten a few small details!

Good luck,

Tony.
Tony Gilbert

P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport

digcot65
Posts: 360
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 1:34 pm

Re: 1934 Rover 12 clutch

Post by digcot65 » Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:50 am

Thanks very much for the information ,The clutch has sufficient play in the pedal it just bites late,however its very light and has a strong bite,it pulls away quite easily ,with the handbrake hard on.So it will be a case of running it and if it needs doing,it could be a job for after the summer.Im just setting the carb. up I noticed that the vacuum barrel was sticking from rest position so I recentered the needle cleaned and oiled it (3in1) and it nice and free ,but it is too rich its hunting a bit on tick over.Also ,just fitted a temp .gauge ,I didnt want to cut into the dash I like to know how warm the engine may get The oil pressure is a nice 60 Lbs Len
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