1939 P2 Rover 10 does anyone know if there are different lengths of steering control tube? I had to replace the steering column but I couldn't find the exact one so I settled for one that was very similar. The problem is the control tube is about 1" short and the horn assembly doesn't fit. Any ideas?
Thanks
Andy
rover 10 p2 steering
Re: rover 10 p2 steering
Hi Andy,
Yes there are different length columns and, therefore, different length control tubes. Also the later columns are a larger diameter so the indicator mechanism may be a fiddle to fit unless you have some later column parts.
To resolve your problem you can try to extend the short control tube, get a longer replacement if anyone has one or make a new tube. My thought on doing this would be to use a suitable length of copper tube from a plumber’s merchant and solder on a circular end piece to match the original steel one. My suggestion to use copper is simply down to availability and potential ease to join the end bit on. However, if you have access to steel tube and a welder, all the better. From memory the tube is about 10mm.
Hope that helps.
Tony.
Yes there are different length columns and, therefore, different length control tubes. Also the later columns are a larger diameter so the indicator mechanism may be a fiddle to fit unless you have some later column parts.
To resolve your problem you can try to extend the short control tube, get a longer replacement if anyone has one or make a new tube. My thought on doing this would be to use a suitable length of copper tube from a plumber’s merchant and solder on a circular end piece to match the original steel one. My suggestion to use copper is simply down to availability and potential ease to join the end bit on. However, if you have access to steel tube and a welder, all the better. From memory the tube is about 10mm.
Hope that helps.
Tony.
Tony Gilbert
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport
Re: rover 10 p2 steering
Hi Tony, thanks for your reply, that is in fact what I did. The tube is 11.75mm OD, I bought some 12mm steel tube and 14mm from B&Q and extended the tube about 40mm. The horn assembly is a push fit onto the tube and with the tube clamped off at the bottom the horn doesn't go round with the wheel. This seems reasonable as it won't twist the wires but I'm not sure it's right. I can't remember if the horn assembly stayed still of if it went round with the steering wheel.
Re: rover 10 p2 steering
Andy,
The horn and dip switch remain fixed when the wheel is turned, although the whole assembly does move a little for the advance and retard mechanism to operate. If your car is without this, the clamp at the bottom of the tube joins up with a collection of rods and swivels that eventually move the distributor back and forth a little. On my P1 Tourer this was disconnected, requiring a number of new rods to be made up and some welding of the swivel bits to remove the wear. Looks nice and pleasing to have it working. Originally to compensate for varying fuel quality, but not needed nowadays.
If the horn assembly is allowed to move when the wheel is turned this may, over time, cause the wires inside to twist and chafe on the inside of the metal tube, resulting in an earth fault. So best avoided.
Until recently, I had a 1937 P2 12 Saloon. A lovely car, which was a joy to drive around. Your 10 will be very similar and with the later cylinder head, much the same performance I expect. To my surprise it had to be driven quite hard to make good progress but, back in the day, I think they were revved more through the gears than modern cars need to be.
Good luck with your car and enjoy the 30s fun!
Tony.
The horn and dip switch remain fixed when the wheel is turned, although the whole assembly does move a little for the advance and retard mechanism to operate. If your car is without this, the clamp at the bottom of the tube joins up with a collection of rods and swivels that eventually move the distributor back and forth a little. On my P1 Tourer this was disconnected, requiring a number of new rods to be made up and some welding of the swivel bits to remove the wear. Looks nice and pleasing to have it working. Originally to compensate for varying fuel quality, but not needed nowadays.
If the horn assembly is allowed to move when the wheel is turned this may, over time, cause the wires inside to twist and chafe on the inside of the metal tube, resulting in an earth fault. So best avoided.
Until recently, I had a 1937 P2 12 Saloon. A lovely car, which was a joy to drive around. Your 10 will be very similar and with the later cylinder head, much the same performance I expect. To my surprise it had to be driven quite hard to make good progress but, back in the day, I think they were revved more through the gears than modern cars need to be.
Good luck with your car and enjoy the 30s fun!
Tony.
Tony Gilbert
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport
P1 12 Tourer
P2 12 6 Light Saloon
Discovery 3
Discovery Sport