P2 query 2

[matrax2]

Another P2 query:
Since I am still waiting for my ordered workshop manual, could someone pls tell me how to remove the centre part of the steering wheel?
The part that does not turn with the wheel and has the switches on it?
Secondly: I want to change the engine oil. Where can I find the oilfilter?
Rover 12 1500cc (kitcher special) 1936.
Regards, Hans

[47p2]

To remove the steering columb tube it has to be loostened at the steering box end
If you look in the engine bay at the steering box you will see some wires coming out the end, there is a clamp there which holds the tube in place. Loosten this clamp and from the inside of the car carefully pull the tube out. You will have to take it through the back door because of the length.

The oil filter is fitted in the sump. A plate on the side has to be removed to allow access. I have an exrernal filter fitted so have never done this. Phil may guide you better

[Phil - Nottingham]

Its dead easy to screw the filter out on the side of the sump ............... after which you must disconnect the exhaust down-pipe which otherwise prevents you removing the filter for more than 1/3rd its length

It can however be inspected to see if it needs cleaning - if so it is better to remove the sump and scrape out the 2" of sludge that should have settled in the bottom The sump gasket may well be resusable but it is best to have one ready for replacement jut in case

The filter is merely brass mesh like a teastrainer on the side of a support tube - its job is to remove lumps the sze of a halfbrick that may damge a white metal bearing (these are not removable as on modern/later cars but have to be melted in in situ and very carefully scrapped to the right clearance fit. The bearing metal is designed to be soft enough to allow the remaining particles that are not filtered out/or drop to the bottom and stick in the sludge, to embed so as not to score the crank pins. Extremely simple and primitive but is does work

This is why modern and/or high detergent and synthetic oils must never be used as it hold all the residue in suspension that gets pumped around the engine.

The bypass filter setup as fiited to pre-war 20 models does help remove some of the worse of the particles and it can be fitted usually by teeing into the cylinder head rocker feed pipe. This apparently filters 10% of the oil but i suppose that is better than nothing at all (which the tea-strainer set up is really)

Note: Removal of the exhaust down pipe will probably end up with a broken/stripped manifold stud or damaged exhaust pipe joint to the silencer and a new manifold down-pipe gasket will definitely be needed as well

[matrax2]

Hallo Phil and John,
Thanks very much for your very helpfull reactions.

About he engine oil:
When I got he car I noticed a strange color of the oil. It had a strange grayish color in it. Didn't feel like metal parts, very fine.
The engine starts on one push of the button and runs very smooth, without funny sounds.
Compression is ok, between 9,5 and 10, almost equal on all cilinders.
I asked the MG-Workshop, where they have a lot of prewar cars in reparation and maintainence (even a SS100 and a Aston Martin), what oil to use.
They told me a 20-50W is fine, of course non-synthatic.
I had a 15-40W on the shelf, so I thought, lets see if this oil is going to get the gray color soon or not, with the intension to change it quickly after for the right one.
It is colored a little bit now, but not much.
So the questions are: any alarm about the color of the oil and what exaxtly is a not modern oil? Is any multigrade out of the question or not?

Best Regards, Hans.

[47p2]

Hi Hans, your car would originally run on SAE 30w oil, but today it is recommended that a good quality 20w/50 or 20w/60 is recommended.

I use Penrite 20w/60 which is a little more expensive but they do have lots of experience in developing oils for older vehicles.

Another top quality motor oil for older vehicles is Millers. Both companies can be found on the net

It might be worth the effort to drop the sump on the car before changing the oil and giving it a good clean out. That way you can be sure that nothing is being dredged up from the bottom and mixing with the fresh oil

[Phil - Nottingham]

Grey oil is usually water in suspension - hopefully its just condensation otherwise its head gasket failure or a cracked block Bearing metal is grey but that is usualy found in the sludge. Is it using any water.

Oil in these engines should be changed every 18 mths 1500 miles max whichever come first - 20/50 low detergent oil of good quality is required not any thnner or synthetics/semi-synthetic. 15/40 is far too thin. use this oil as a flushing oil so change again and finally refill with the correct oil (a 20/60 is good if you are doing some "high speed motoring" which these cars are capable of (defined as cruising at 55-65 mph) and give it a good run

[matrax2]

Thanks again,
The car is covered in very good layers of shiny paint, but did clearly suffer of moisture visible on the brightworks, alu dash, etc.
The dipstick had a very loose fitting in the block too, so lets hope it's water in the oil. I haven'' t noticed any change in the water level yet, but it is a little harder to determine because it has a closed cooling circuit with expansioncontainer. Did have some problems filling it after I had drained it, but found out that filling it through the upper connectiontube, between the radiator and the pump, did the trick.
I will go and change the oil very soon and after i have obtained a gasket for the oilpan, i will removeand clean it.
Asa I have had a good run (will need my bomberjacket) will let you know.
Regards, Hans

[matrax2]

PS, could you advice where to buy gaskets?

[Phil - Nottingham]

It should not have a closed circuit cooling system and it is totally open as not even pressurised.

The 6 cylinder head has a long known design fault that allows the rear most cylinders to run hot and locally overheat causing expulsion of the rad contents through the rad cap and onto windsreen. This only happens in rare instances but as the the rad becomes blocked it will occur more and more.

This mod looks to be a solution but not one I would use as the pressure could force out core plugs, blow pump seals and split hoses and even the rad.

The accepted way is to open up the rear coolant holes in the head (and block I think) and restrict the front ones. There is a firm in the UK that has done this properly by measuring flow rates.

Until I recored my rad I thought it was necessay to do this but I have not had any trouble at all since (except when the fan belt broke at 60mph and it boiled over within a mile.

When I have to remove the head I may conosder this mod along with hardened valveseats/sintered guides to run on unleaded without additive - will never pay for itself though!!

[matrax2]

Thanks for all information.
There's fresh classic Castrol 20-50W in it now and it is running fine.
I noticed the gearbox level is only 1/4 th of what it should be amd it looks more like drab then oil.
So once more a question: what is the right oil for the gearbox? (still waiting for the manual, helas)
Regards, Hans.