Page 1 of 1
P2 Brakes
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2024 9:30 am
by AdrianGoodyear
Now into my second year of my (P2, 12hp, 6 light) restoration, I now turn my attention to the brakes....
Having dismantled everything prior to cleaning/repainting/replacing worn clevis pins etc, I find that there is a rod to the rear brakes that has a spring plunger device that (presumably) holds the rear brakes off unless the brakes are being applied. My issue is that the spring, stop and plunger seem to be seized and will not come apart. I have tried some tentative tapping to see if this will result in any movement but all seems to be firmly in place. I'm reluctant to try harder in case I damage parts I may find difficult to replace. Does any one have any experience of this and can, perhaps, advise?
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2024 5:45 pm
by TonyG
Hi Adrian,
You don’t say where this rod is located, but I’m guessing it’s the one that goes from the vertical swivel near the pedal box to the join where the handbrake connects? If so, I think this is the two piece rod that pushes backwards to operate the rear brakes. However, where one rod slides inside the other, there is a concertina rubber sleeve over the join. The purpose of this arrangement is so that the handbrake operation does not pull back on the rod going forward to the front brakes.
The rods can rust together and should be greased to prevent this and the rubber sleeve stops the water getting in. These are pretty robust rods so it is unlikely you will damage them. Suggest you apply liberal amounts of penetrating fluid before trying and if you cannot knock the outer off the inner (solid) rod, when held in a vice, then some heat might need be necessary. However, if they are impossible to get apart once some effort has been applied, you may need to source replacements but I doubt it will come to that.
I hope that helps and that I’ve understood the offending part correctly?
When I did my brakes, I had the shoes re-lined by Saftek in Cleckheaton. They turned them around in less than two weeks. I also found that slightly worn yolks could be drilled out and larger Clevis pins used or, where they were very worn, welded up and re-drilled to the original size. The biggest challenge is getting the front axle brake compensator to work without undue play and so it doesn’t foul on the leaf spring.
The braking system is all pretty simple and straight forward. Good luck!
Tony.
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2024 8:14 pm
by AdrianGoodyear
Hi Tony
Many thanks for your response. Now you have assured me that they should come apart I will be more determined in my efforts - I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back. Thanks also for the gen. re the clevis pins - but that'll come later. Stay tuned!
Best wishes, Adrian
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2024 5:44 pm
by AdrianGoodyear
Hi Tony
An update.
I took a large hammer and a drift and attacked the offending item with renewed vigour. It has moved about 1/4" and I can now rotate the Sliding rod about 30 degrees. This is real progress! I have (re)applied WD40 and Plusgas and will now leave it to soak for a few days.
TTFN, Adrian
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2024 6:59 pm
by AdrianGoodyear
Hi Tony
At last it's free! So, many thanks for you advice.
Best wishes, Adrian
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2025 11:51 pm
by PSavage
Hi I am rebuilding my 1947 P2 and just found out that the rear brake compensator should move. Mine is stuck fast, I have soaked it in penetrating fluid but

stupid question but before I attack it with greater force which end moves? ie which end is the 'inner' tube, the end nearest the spring end or the other end? Thanks Phil
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2025 6:30 pm
by TonyG
Hi Phil,
If the ‘47 P2 is the same as my ‘37 P2 I believe the rear brake compensator mounted on the rear axle swivels in two planes. I.e the whole thing moves in the vertical plane where it mounts into the axel and bit where the brake rods attach swivel in the horizontal plane. This takes account of axel moving up and down different amounts on each side of the car.
The whole lot needs to be well greased along with all the Clevis pins and yolks throughout the braking system. I think there maybe a Luvax connection on the rear compensator, which may explain why yours has seized so badly.
Hope that helps. I’m in Essex if it would help to look at the brakes on my cars?
Tony.
Re: P2 Brakes
Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2025 7:02 am
by TonyG
Hi Phil,
I’ve just re-read your question and I think you are asking about the telescopic rod that goes between the brake pedal and rear brakes, as discussed in my earlier reply at the beginning of this thread from last year.
Once removed, this rod slides within the outer and, from memory, I believe the inner part goes at the front, connecting to the pedal. I’m pretty sure this is shown in the parts book diagram which, together with the workshop manual, are invaluable to all of us. If you have yet to get one, they are available via the club site.
The rear brake compensator is, as I previously described, mounted on the rear axle.
I hope this helps and my apologies for any misunderstanding!
Tony.