Front bumper bar & fixings

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achandler
Posts: 63
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 10:45 pm

Front bumper bar & fixings

Post by achandler » Wed Aug 10, 2016 10:04 pm

I am trying to restore a 1947 Rover 12 that until recently was in regular use, but has now got to the point where quite a lot of work needs to be done. I was given 2 starting handles, one long and one short. When checking which one was right I realised that I could use neither as the front bumper bar was too high. It appears that it has been bolted to the cross member immediately behind it, using the cylinders at each end, with a bolt right through from the top of each cylinder. I may be wrong but I thought that those cylinders were supposed to have weights in them to reduce "vibration", not for securing the bumper. The RSR Workshop manual and Part catalogue are silent on this, so I am trying to find out a) how the bumper should be attached to the chassis b) what weights should be in the cylinders.
There are no other P2 Saloons in our local Club, and only three that are in the South Island, and they are all too far away for me to see easily. Any photos or advise would be most welcome.

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luli
Posts: 646
Joined: Sat Jun 04, 2011 6:49 am
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Re: Front bumper bar & fixings

Post by luli » Thu Aug 11, 2016 12:30 pm

I hope this can help you http://wp.me/pXLKy-at (type 1) and this http://wp.me/pXLKy-ME (type 2)
and also this
Image
Rover 10 1946 RHD
Rover 10 1947 LHD
Rover 12 1947 tourer LHD
http://lulisml.wordpress.com/

GOY189
Posts: 558
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:08 pm

Re: Front bumper bar & fixings

Post by GOY189 » Sat Aug 13, 2016 9:09 pm

There are actually 3 types of bumper that may be fitted to 1947 cars. The stabilising type was commonly fitted pre war and has damping weights in the large scrolls at the end, arranged around the bolt that also passes through the 2 horizontal blades. These bumpers fit to the car by means of U bolts around a metalastic bearing bolted to each front dumb iron. The U bolts go through holes in the horizontal blade. There are chrome trims to hide the bearings. The only large holes in the bumper are 2 to hold the starting handle bearing plate.

You can see an excellent restored example at ebay UK item number 131904174286


The second and third types use brackets that are bolted to the dumb irons and the bumpers. Both therefore have 2 additional holes in the blade near the scrolls, and are the type Luli illustrates.

Group 2 bumpers have small scrolls and polished end plugs. Group 3. that are more common, have a large scroll, polished stainless steel mushroom for the ends held on by a slim stud through a dished washer underneath. If dismantling these, you may wish to use a nut splitter. I didn't and it caused a whole lot of extra work repairing a stud!

Group 2 and 3 bumpers are bolted to the car using the same brackets (brackets are handed and 4 cylinder brackets differ from 6 cylinder brackets).

I will check the weights and advise.

Hope this helps

Mike

GOY189
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Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:08 pm

Re: Front bumper bar & fixings

Post by GOY189 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:11 am

Just a further thought, The starting handle bearing plate (attaches to the bumper by 2 bolts at the centre, ) can be adjusted vertically as there are usually 2 sets of slots in it.

regards

Mike

GOY189
Posts: 558
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 5:08 pm

Re: Front bumper bar & fixings

Post by GOY189 » Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:00 pm

The weight of the assembly, including mushroom and retaining washer fitted at the bottom is 2.020 Kg at either end. Some adjustment is allowed for as the weight is made up from 6 or 7 lead discs.

Hope this helps

Mike

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