Rover Sports Register Forum

Hello all,

I thought I'd ask for your help/advice/opinions please, as I'm new to pre-war Rover ownership...

I'm used to driving other pre-war cars on cross-plies - however, my newly-acquired '38 12HP, has extremely 'wandering' steering - to the point that I consider it unsafe to drive on major roads at anything over about 35-40 mph...its a genuine struggle to keep it from wandering across the white line one moment, then from running into the curb the next...it also seems to 'steer' from the rear-end sometimes too, like its over-steering slightly (especially whilst going down hill) and the tyres start to squeal quite a lot whilst going around corners, even at pretty low speeds...

I've just fitted a full set of new 5.25/5.50 x 17 'Waymaster-30' tyres - these have helped slightly to ease the problem, but its still wildly uneasy on the road...I checked the tracking today - surprisingly, it was toeing IN far too much on the N/S (19mm or 3/4" at the wheel-rim) whilst the O/S toe-in was only slightly over 3mm or 1/8" - which is roughly what I suspect it should be...its now adjusted to about 1/8" each side but it still wanders...I've visually checked the ball-joints for wear - they appear to be fine, likewise their doesn't seem too much play in the steering-box - although the box does appear to 'move' a little with flex on the chassis, as the steering wheel is turned, especially whilst the wheels are stationary - is this usual?

I've also checked the fore/aft alignment of the front to rear wheels - their pretty much the same each side, to within about 3-mm...is this acceptable???

I'm now suspecting the rear spring bushes?

Do any of you guys have any previous experience of this problem yourselves, or can you suggest anything else to check please?...any help or advice would be much appreciated - ta!

Regards - Guy.

Guy,

I don't have experience of the wandering problem you describe. However, I can tell you that the toe-in should be 3mm or 1/8th inch measured wheel to wheel and that the steering box is inclined to flex on the chassis, particularly when the car is stationary so I doubt that is the cause of your wandering but, I believe, later models had an additional cross member that went just behind the steering box and this may have helped improve that problem. Tyre pressures should be set to 26-28lbs.

The steering box can sustain wear on the worm, particularly in the straight ahead position, since this is the bit that does the most work. Some years ago i replaced the bronze nut on mine with an under-size version to take out any play. I think this may be a common problem and suggest that you check the box again carefully for play. Ball joints would also be a prime candidate for your problem. Other than that it sounds as though you are checking all the right bits . However, if box and joints are OK then you need to check all the spring hanger and spring eye bushes front and back plus the king pins. To detect play you will probably need to jack the car up and use a bar to try and move them, like the MOT testers do. If you have the Luvax autolube connected it would be worth checking that it is lubricating these joints properly and that the tiny oil ways through the hangers aren't blocked as this will result in premature wear (sometimes new bushes are fitted and need drilling to open the oil way). If its not working then grease nipples can be substituted to good effect (this is a previously debated subject on this forum and down to personal preference). Also worth checking the shock absorbers and connecting arm rubbers.

The design is all pretty simple so if the chassis is straight and all the above is OK, the car shouldn't wander but, if it does, I'd start checking that all the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted and lubricated and, of course, the brakes so there are no other factors that might effect the straight line running of your car.

Good luck and I look forward to hearing how you get on.

Tony.

On top of the above, verify that you have the correct castor and camber. See here http://wp.me/pXLKy-1zp and here http://wp.me/pXLKy-1zz and here http://wp.me/pXLKy-1AE. With a correctly maintained steering system Rover P2 can drive steadily, without any wander, on the road.

Hello Gent's,

Thank-you very much for both of your replies - their duly noted and very much appreciated!

I've now had a chance to have a proper drive in her after adjusting the tracking and I must say that she's an awful lot better than before - she's not perfect, but she is at least driveable...

I'm going to have a good look at the rear springs and shackles next, before deciding if I need to splash out on a reconditioned steering box...I'm not limiting myself to a budget for the work, but if I don't need to buy a recon-box then why do so!

I'll keep you informed of progress as it happens!

Regards - Guy.

Hello Guy, following our chat, the crucial information is:-

1. The main leaf roll end on a genuine Rover spring should have two holes just visible where the roll meets the leaf at one end, and this the front end. This is designed to allow oil to be driven by the slipstream back over the spring from the Luvax lubrication of the front bush. If the holes are not there then the spring may be a pattern unit.

2. The thick end of the wedge between axle and spring faces front.

3. The axle mounting locating bolt on the spring is off centre of the spring, shorter length to the front.

Hope that this helps

Mike

Hi Mike,

It was lovely to chat with you the other evening sir - and everything's been duly noted

I fitted some new rear shock-absorber rubbers on Friday evening (a pig of a job!) and after (re)adjusting the tyre pressures, she's driving an awful lot better now - indeed, I even opened her up last night on a local dual-carriageway and had her nudging 60!...she was fine really, so I think for now at least, I'm over the worst of her wanderings!

I'm going to use and enjoy her a little as-is over the next couple of months and see how she behaves, but I think then that my chosen plan of action will be to buy/ fit a reconditioned steering box and and a set of 'new' replacement springs and bushes, as I think the originals are getting a little tired now and flexing a little too much when under load - which wont be helping the steering much either...

I'll have a trip out over to yours shortly and let you cast your expert eye over her sir - I'll let you know when in plenty of time...so that you can make sure your out when I get there!!!

Regards - Guy.