Removing fuel tank on P2 DHC

[RobHomewood]

Having failed to resolve my problem getting up hills I have fallen back on cleaning. resurfacing or replacing the fuel tank to eliminate that as a potential cause for fuel starvation- I know it is pretty rusty in there because the new in line filter went brown within seconds of starting up.
BUT how much of a job is removing the tank? Its not described in my manual and to treat the existing tank thoroughly it needs to be out I think? (This is a 1939 14 Tickford Drophead so may be slightly different to the saloon I guess) I would put a new tank in if I could find one - anyone any suggestions for a source? If not I am looking at Frosts PQ15 on the old one so would appreciate some advice on removal and refitting

[47p2]

I've never seen the tank on a DHC but assume it's similar to the saloon models. If so you will need the car raised at the back to enable you to drop the tank down. If the bolts aren't rusted it's a simple job which takes no more than 10 minutes.

Empty and fuel from the tank before starting this work
Remove the jubilee clips and filler pipework under the car, don't attempt to remove the filler neck from the bodywork. Empty the boot and remove the inspection cover plate and disconnect the electrics and pipes from the tank. Then have someone assist you by holding the tank while you remove the bolts. The tank will then drop down (take care at the filler side that it doesn't get caught) and refitting is the reversal

Once removed you will see the P2 tank isn't a simple rectangular shape, it's sculptured and shaped to fit around various parts of the vehicle and I suspect it would be a difficult tank to replicate

[RobHomewood]

Many thanks- that sounds reassuringly straightforward. Knowing my luck it wont be but I am encouraged.
By the way the parts list shows rubber pads top and bottom of the fixing bracket- is this just to cushion movement or to isolate the tank electrically?
regards Rob

[47p2]

Without checking the parts catalogue I would suspect it is to hold the tank firmly in place. The sender unit needs an earth so it won't be to isolate any electrics

[luli]

When the time had come to pay attention to the fuel tank, I decided to replace it with a stainless still replica. A local shop had constructed it for me – including a new muffler.
http://wp.me/pXLKy-20R

[deckell]

I had a similar problem with my p375 after a complete renewal of plugs, points, condenser,rotor,coil,two fuel pumps and new plug leads still no joy.i then pulled the fuel tank out and gave it a thorough clean,not much rubbish in it, and replaced it still no joy but plenty of frustration by this time i was looking for a match stick.after a couple of days i dragged myself back to the shed for some more frustration,bingo i found the problem the rubber seal in the fuel cap did not have a vent hole,i punched a small in it lined the hole up with the one in the cap and it has been running like a new one since. regards Derrick.Smith

[RobHomewood]

I have now taken the fuel tank off and am cleaning it- about a pound of rusty bits came out with the first 2 water washes and now applied the sludge cleaner stage. I dont think that can all have happened in the last 2 years but I shall certainly be making sure I keep the tank full in future! Also replacing the in line filter again as the new (reusable) one I put in made things worse ( ie actually cutting out and in on the road) and I think the mesh was too fine and apertures too small. I have also blown out the fuel line using a pump off the blow up bed- not that anything much came out. The mesh gauze filter which I made for the replacement dip pipes actually still looked quite clean! I have fingers and toes crossed that this all solves something.