correct oil?

[Vince]

Hi everyone.
Currently rebuilding a rover twelve engine. It has new main, big end shells, re bored with new pistons and also has new valve sleeves.
What oil do you folks suggest for running in and for general use after running in is completed.
Thanks Vince

[TimMoore]

20/50 Mineral Oil is my choice foralmost 30 years of P2 ownership.

Or straight 30SAE monograde

[Chris C]

Given the repair carried out to the engine, hope that the oil pump has been checked.
When first starting the engine, disconnect the HT lead from the coil or distributor so
that the engine doesn't fire up, but oil is pumped around the engine to fill the oil
galleries and prime the lubrication system. Once pressure is registered on the oil
pressure gauge, then reconnect the HT lead and fire up the engine (sorry if I'm
teaching granny to suck eggs as it were). Rgds, Chris C.

[Vince]

Thanks for the replies.
I thought of using a monograde running in oil initially then using the must grade so it's good to hear that others are using multi grades.
I have checked the oil pump and all seems good and although this isn't the first engine I have rebuilt, it is the first 'old' engine so I don't mind folks teaching me to suck eggs! All advice is valued.
I planned on turning over on the handle prior to starting but turning over on the switch with ht lead disconnected is a better idea!
Thanks again .
Any preferred brands of oil?

[Chris C]

Best to use a recognised brand of oil (Castrol, Shell, Millers, Morris Lubricants, Halfords, etc),
a number of these manufacturers blend engine oils suitable for older classic vehicles.
(Castrol & Millers offer Running in oil)

www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/classic-car.asp
http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kin ... -oils.html
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine ... l-20w50-5l

It is not worth using super duper engine oil with all of the modern additives, which give you
extended oil change intervals, as most classic car owners drive a minimal mileage each year
and change the oil every year, as most pre-war cars do not have a modern oil filtration system.

Happy Rovering, Chris C.

[Vince]

I was wondering if anyone has added an extra remote filter to give more effective filtering as the gauze filter is a bit basic.
Not sure that the oil pump would be up to the job and not sure where I'd Plumb it in either.
Thoughts?

[Chris C]

Albeit the filter gauze is a bit basic, it does work. Given that you won't be doing
thousands of miles/year, It's much simpler to leave well alone and just change the
oil once a year and wash the gauze filter out. Rgds, Chris C.

[luli]

Rover had offerd by-pass Fram oil filter as an Extra (part number T517). You can see more here:
http://wp.me/pXLKy-1Wo

[stuartbell]

On advice from Mike Couldrey, I removed my Fram bypass oil filter assembly from the 1939_10 engine before recomissioning (as per adjacent posts) as it did not seem to offer much in the way of filtration. Not least is the expense of changing the cartridge, as my old and original item was totally bunged-up and doing nothing for the engine. When I removed the assembly during cylinder head work, I found that the exit port at the base of the filter assembly had blocked, so the filter was just there for aesthetics. The reasoning behind the filter removal is that it is better to have good (and unbypassed) oil pressure with a regularly-changed oil, rather than a lower oil pressure on a partially-cleaned oil.

What I did find useful was the ability to use the Fram housing as an oil primer and system tester; by cleaning the housing out of encrusted dirt, then refilling the unit almost to the top, I was able to blow (with an air-line adapted with 3/16" brake line) directly into the disconnected oil return line from the base of the housing. This meant that oil was blown at 2BAR (30psi) nominal air pressure into the main gallery at the oil gauge adapter to the rear of the cylinder block, so I was able to observe where oil weeped from first & last with the sump and rocker cover removed, and make an assessment of my bearing clearances. I am hoping to include some pictures of this in the other thread.

[Vince]

Thanks for the replies. The photos were interesting. I am still in two minds whether it's worth pursuing. I think I'd rather have more effectively filtered oil especially after a rebuild of an unused old engine because however much the oil galleries etc have been flushed, there's bound to be some contaminants in there.
I'll have to have a think.
Thanks again. Vince