Over heating P2

wooster
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:50 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by wooster » Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:39 am

I desperately need a workshop manual. Can anyone help? Please.
Cheers
Rich
_______
'39 P2 '14' six-light

lakesrally

Re: Over heating P2

Post by lakesrally » Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:30 am

They are available direct from the club, see http://www.thersr.co.uk/club/rsr-publications Best of luck, hope it goes well.

lakesrally

Re: Over heating P2

Post by lakesrally » Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:35 am

Ooops, sorry, they appear to be out of stock. I'd lend you mine if I wasn't using it at the moment.

wooster
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:50 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by wooster » Tue Aug 26, 2014 11:41 am

Someone is even more desperate than me! http://www.ebay.co.uk/mbf/BidsOffers?ss ... 2034.l3383
Cheers
Rich
_______
'39 P2 '14' six-light

lakesrally

Re: Over heating P2

Post by lakesrally » Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:14 pm

...and it's not even the most recent edition. Mike Maher might be able to tell you the situation regarding when we might have more stock.

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luli
Posts: 646
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Re: Over heating P2

Post by luli » Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:51 pm

In September 1968 I had written the Rover Co. asking some technical questions. Few days later I received a thick envelope in the mail: It was full of type writer typed service bulletins Rover had prepared for my type of car – P2 Rover 10. During the years I have read them again and again, and they are hardly readable today, especially the “decarbonise” one. Therefor I have scanned it and transformed it into a computer file, and this is a good opportunity to share it with other Rover fans. Rover 14 job should not be very different.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTION NO. 034.
THE ROVER COMPANY LIMITED,
TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPT. SOLIHULL, WARWICKSHIRE,
E N G L A N D.
SUBJECT : TO DECARBONISE. MODELS : 1939-47 10 & 12 h.p.
ENGINE, TO DECARBONISE :
1 Drain off water, 2 taps as follows : -
(a) Bottom hose at O.S. front of engine.
(b) O.S. rear of cylinder block.

2 Remove bonnet top (2 set screws at front of hinge)
3 Remove bonnet sides (2 wing nuts)
4 Carburettor air silencer to remove :
(a) Remove 5/l6" dome nut and fibre washer securing support bracket to banjo, on top of rocker cover.
(b) Slacken securing clip at carburettor intake.
(c) Remove air silencer and breather pipe (banjo) and 2 fibre washers.
5 Carburettor to remove.
(a) Remove the pipe between the petrol pump and carburettor. (1-3/8 union and 1-7/16" banjo union)
(b) Disconnect "Cold start" control from carburettor (2 set bolts)
(c) Remove throttle linkage between bell crank on inlet manifold and carburettor (ball joints).
(d) Remove 2X5/16" nuts and spring washers securing the carburettor.
(e) Lift off carburattor, together with one joint washer (and two masetite washers where Solex carburrator is fitted)
6. Dissconnect Bijure pipe from inlet manifold, and tie back out of the way.
7. Cylinder head, to remove.
(a) Remove plug lead cover (2 spring clips)
(b) dissconect plug leads (4 finger nuts and spring washers)
(c) Remove distributor cap ( 2 spring clips).
(d) Remove valve rocker cover and cork washer (4 5/16 dome nuts and fiber washers).
(e) Disconnect rear tappet cover breather pipe. Remove tappet cover plates (2X5/16 dome nuts, 2 spring clips, 4 fibere washers, and 2 corck washers)
(f) Disconnect throttle ball joint at ball cranck.
(g) Remove 8X5/16 nuts and spring washers and 2X3/8 nuts and spring washers securing manifold to head.
(h) Remove manifold clamps, pull back manifold and tie out the way, remove gaskets.
(j) Remove 4X5/16" nuts, lX3/8 set bolt and 2X3/8 nuts securing rocker shaft brackets to head. These should be unscrewed as evenly as possible to avoid bonding the shaft. (Packing pieces will be found under the rocker shaft brackets and if loose must be replaced as found.)
(k) Tie front and roar rockers together with locking wire. Ease rocker shaft upwards parallel with cylinder head until it clears studs, remove 6 rocker brocket packing pieces, lift out the 8 push rods.
(m) Disconnect water heater pipe from water pump, undo 4X5/16 bolts and spring washers securing water pump to cylinder head and withdraw as far as possible.
(n) Disconnect banjo connection for oil feed to rocker shaft from front N.S. of cylinder head. (7/16" hollow bolt and 2 fiber washers.)
(o) Remove plugs, disconnect wires on thermostat switch in cylinder head rear end cover, remove water hose from cover. Remove 5/16" set bolt securing water outlet pipe bracket.
(p) Remove 12X3/8 bolts and 3X3/8 nuts securing cylinder head to block, remove the Bijur suction pipe bracket.
(q) Remove cylinder head. Early 1947 models have 2 gaskets and a compression plate.
8. Valves to remove.
N.B. If Valves are not already numbered, lightly ”centre pop” 1 to 8 inclusive from front to rear.
(a) Place head on bench with suitable block under valve heads of No.l, combustion chamber,
(b) Depress valve spring collar and remove split cotters.
(c) Release springs and remove collar, springs and valve. Repeat for other valves.

9.
(a) Clean all carbon from combustion chambers, ports etc. using a suitable tool with all sharp edges, removed.
(b) Remove all washers and gaskets, and clean up machined faces.
(c) Remove carbon from valves and check that seating faces are not pitted.
(d) Check valve guides for wear by replacing valves in guides, after removing all oil. If there is excessive "shake" valve guides should be replaced (See NOTE 2).
(e) Grind in valves to approximate seats, using a valve-grinding suction tool.
(f) Check that valve seats are not pitted, if this is the case, the seats will have to be re-cut. (See NOTE 2.)
(g) Wash cylinder head and valves, etc. in paraffin making certain that all traces of grinding paste are removed.
(h) Clean all carbon from the top of the pistons.
(j) Remove all gaskets and washers and clean up machined facets.
N.B.
Care should be taken during these two last operations to see that carbon or dirt is not allowed into water passages or on to the tappets. Holes for the passage of water from the block to the head should be cleaned out as far as possible.

10. To re-assemble.
Reverse operations fitting new gaskets and cork washers as follows : -
cylinder head gasket 1
Manifold Gasket 1
Joint washer for tappet cover plate 1
Joint washer for carburettor 1
Carburettor flange washer, mastite. 2 Solex only
Joint washer, water pump to head 1

11. (a) Remove contact points, and if they are burned or blackened, they should be cleaned with a suitable carborundum stone, and afterwords with a cloth moisterd with petrol.
(b) Replace the contact points and rotate engine until they are fully open, then slacken the two screws in the contact plate, and move the plate until the gap is .012”. After making the adjustment care must be taken to tighten the locking screws. Replace rotor and distributor cap.
12. Clean sparking plugs, and adjust if necessary, the correct gap is ,015" - .018". Plugs should be changed every 15000 to 20000 miles.
Run engine until it is HOT.and then adjust tappots as follows : -
(a) Rotate engine by hand until the valve to be adjusted is fully open, then move the engine one complete turn. The tappet will be now on the back of the cam.
(b) The correct clearence is .010” with the engine hot on both inlet and exhaust adjustment for clearence between rocker end and tho valve is provided by a set screw and lock nut on the rocker. The lock nut must be securly tightened after adjustment.
It cannot be urged too strongly that tho clearance MUST BE .010" the best results are to bo obtained.
Adjustments to carburettor must be carried out when the engine is at normal working temperature.
SOLEX CARBURETTOR.
The slow running screw mounted on the abutment plate of the throttle lever, limited the closing of the throttle, and thus fixes the idling speed of tho engine.
The mixture adjustment screw permits the richness of idling mixture to be varied. By turning it in an anticlockwise directicn, enrichment takes place, up to the limit of the pilot jet output and conversely by clockwise rotation the mixture is weakened.
Poverty of mixture is recognized by the irregular behaviour of the engine and a tendency to stall. Over-richness will cause the engine to '"hunt" and tend to stall when the "hunt" becomes excessive.
In order to perfect the slow running, adjust first the screw on the abutment plate, so as to fix approximately the speed of the engine.
Then experiment with the mixture adjustment screw until even running is obtained.
As this operation will generally alter the engine speed, it will be seen that finally a nice adjustment of both the screws on tho abutment plate and the mixture regulating screw will determine the results.
Before attempting to tune an S.U. Carburettor it must be understood that as the jets are all the same size, the ONLY ADJUSTMENT possible is fitting tho right size of needle with the jet adjusting nut set correctly to act as a stop for the weak position of the jet when idling.
Should the engine run badly after having previously given good results. DO NOT CHANGE THE NEEDLE, as this cannot be the cause of the trouble.
Never use any needle except the correct one unless the engine has been radically altered by raising the compression ratio, reboring etc., or worse results will be obtained.
No.l. CORRECTING THE MIXTURE. It is important that the carburetter should be adjusted by means of the jet adjusting nut in such a manner that the correct mixture is obtained when the engine is running slowly, that is to say, it should be made to run as evenly as possible. This can be noted by listening to tho exhaust. If the engine has a constant uneven beat (known as "hunting"), this is due to strong mixture. If the exhaust note is irregular and splashy, tho mixture is too weak. A simple way to test for strong mixture when the engine is idling is to lift the piston up slightly say 1/32", with something small such as a pencil, and if when this is done the engine runs faster, the mixture is too strong. It is advantageous to have the mixture very slightly on tho weak side with tho control on tho facia board right in, and if the adjustment is made correctly for slow running, it will automatically be correct at all engine speeds.
To adjust the mixture, proceed as follows
A. Run tho engine until it attains a normal working temperature.
B. Check the piston is free by inserting a finger in the air intake
and lifting the piston a small amount, say l/l6in., it should
come up quite freely and when released fall right onto its seat with an audible click.
C. Set the slow running adjusting screw on the carburettor to give
the slowest possible "tick-over" and disconnect tho mixture
control from the jet lever.
D. The jet stop is now screwed upwards, one flet at a time and the
jet raised at the same time unti1the flenged on the jet head abuts
against the nut. The motion is continud until the weakest
possible mixture is obtained consistent with even running. It may
be necessary during this operation to re-set tho slow running
screw as in Item C (above), because the engine will tend to run
faster when tho correct-mixture is reached.
E. Re-connect the mixture control to the jet lever as in the
following paragraph.
No.2. ADJUSTMENT OF MIXTURE CONTROL. It is very important that when
any adjustments are made to the mixture control, to make sure that when the control is in tho "weak" position, that the jet head is actually butting against the adjusting nut before the control on the facia board is right "home". To ensure that this is so, adjus the Bowden cable attached to the jet lever in such a manner that when the jet head just touches the jet adjusting nut, the control knob has still 1/8" further possible movement towards the instrument panel. After adjusting the cable, make sure that the cable retaining clip and the cable casing retaining clip have been securely tightened, or the adjustment will be lost the first time the control is used.

NOTE l. Do not try and set the idling speed too low i.e. at less than about 400 R.P.M.
NOTE 2. Where new valvea have been fitted the seats will always have to be re-cut.
Rover 10 1946 RHD
Rover 10 1947 LHD
Rover 12 1947 tourer LHD
http://lulisml.wordpress.com/

RobHomewood
Posts: 320
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2013 8:04 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by RobHomewood » Wed Aug 27, 2014 7:13 pm

I too have a number of Rover P2 service bulletins mainly photocopied or duplicated but Luli's post made me wonder whether I should be sharing them with the club- I had assumed that these were widely copied and used as the basis of the workshop manual. Mine may indeed have come from the club originally so would't add any information. But if there was a need could the club hold a library of them? I would be happy to scan mine in and hopefully other members would have other issues. I can list what I have if that was helpful?

wooster
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:50 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by wooster » Wed Aug 27, 2014 8:18 pm

The manual on ebay went for over £60!
Cheers
Rich
_______
'39 P2 '14' six-light

wooster
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:50 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by wooster » Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:42 pm

Got the head off. Water ways all gunged up as suspected. Also found two bent push-rods. I'm surprised the engine was running as well as it was. I shall have the head skimmed and modified for unleaded and have the water ways altered to improve cooling.
Image
Image
Cheers
Rich
_______
'39 P2 '14' six-light

wooster
Posts: 120
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:50 pm

Re: Over heating P2

Post by wooster » Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:08 pm

Shoved the pressure washer in the water ways today and gave the block a good blast out. You would not believe the crud that came out. Great lumps of it. Going to let it dry out thoroughly and then stick the vacuum cleaner nozzle, modified with a bit of washer bottle hose, in there to get the rest out.

I broke water temp sender (spanner slipped) and apparently I have to send the whole thing, including the gauge, off to Meteor for an exchange.
Cheers
Rich
_______
'39 P2 '14' six-light

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