Rover Sports Register Forum

The leak is always at the top of the suction tubes (see picture) - and for that matter the advice is irrelevant.

What you show in the above pictures is the fuel reserve valve. See more on it here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-iO and also here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-1nF

Get some helpfull information here: http://wp.me/pXLKy-1dS.
There are companies producing Lucas replicas - some are very expensive http://www.vintage-replica.cz/215.E.htm http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/8--l140- ... eadlights/

See here: http://www.rover-forum.thersr.co.uk/vie ... it=Boulton

Could that help? http://wp.me/pXLKy-1jO
(You have to remove the bracket from the car in order to install the grommet)

Yet another option (to David's nice solution): http://wp.me/pXLKy-1Wo

The horn/deep switch tends to get oxidized due to the high current passing through it. Using relays to carry that current is a great improvement to both the light intensity and switch life expectancy. See here how this is done: http://wp.me/pXLKy-1xp You can also watch restoration of these switches ...

The early series will fit - but it is 22 mm shorter and you will need to sort this issue out. See also here : http://www.rover-forum.thersr.co.uk/vie ... diff#p9667
I have a spare 1:4.88 diff, but as you know, shipping will be expensive...

I have a spare 39-47 10 splines 4.88 diff, and looking for a 4.3 replacement.

I recommend Freddy Boulton: http://wp.me/pXLKy-tu
http://wp.me/pXLKy-ME


Fred Boulton <fred-boulton@tiscali.co.uk>